Comuna 13: Graffiti, Escalators and a Neighborhood’s Transformation

Once one of Medellín’s most troubled districts, San Javier is now known for its outdoor escalators, street art and hip-hop.

Comuna 13, officially San Javier, sits on the western hillsides of Medellín. For years it was one of the most conflict-affected areas of the city. Its turnaround has become one of Colombia’s best-known urban stories, and the neighborhood’s residents tell it themselves through murals, music and guided walks.

The outdoor escalators

In 2011 the city installed a series of covered outdoor escalators in the Las Independencias sector. They replaced a climb of roughly 350 steps, the equivalent of a 28-story building, and cut the trip for residents from about 35 minutes to a few minutes. They are now the centerpiece of most visits.

Graffiti and hip-hop

Murals cover almost every wall along the escalator route. Many tell the history of the comuna, honor community leaders, or depict hope and memory. Local crews breakdance and freestyle along the walkways, and small family shops sell mango biche, coffee and art prints.

How to visit

• Take Metro Line B to San Javier station, then a short taxi or the feeder bus up the hill.
• A local guide adds real context. Choose tours run by residents so the money stays in the neighborhood.
• Go in the morning on a weekday to avoid the biggest crowds.
• Ask before photographing people, and buy something small from the vendors.

Quick facts

• Official name: San Javier
• Escalators opened: 2011
• Metro: San Javier station, Line B